A conversation with Drew Herman, Director of Viticulture at Alexana Estate, and Chris Schreiner, former CEO at Oregon Tilth

For today’s winegrowers, navigating the evolving expectations of consumers, environmental obstacles, and market dynamics means re-evaluating not just how we grow but how it all connects. As more vineyards explore organic methods, the discussion is shifting beyond compliance or marketing to something deeper: quality, resilience, and connection.

At this year’s Organic Wine Conference, leaders in the field came together to explore what it means to grow organically in the wine industry’s diverse landscape. In this Q&A, we hear from Drew Herman of Alexana Estate and Chris Schreiner, former CEO of Oregon Tilth as they share their insights on the role of community, mentorship, education, and advocacy in the organic wine movement. Drew brings over a decade of experience in wine growing, as well as his current role at Alexana Estate in Oregon and their sister wineries in Napa and Argentina. Chris brings over 27 years of leadership from the organic industry and a long-standing commitment to organic agriculture.

Whether you’re certified organic, in transition, or simply curious about the potential of applying organic practices to wine growing, this conversation offers real-world perspectives from the vine and the glass.

Q: What stood out to you as the key themes of this year’s Organic Wine Conference?

DH: The biggest theme was the power of community. The Organic Wine Conference isn’t just about sharing information, it’s about bringing people together in a meaningful way. It’s about getting everyone at the same table and building relationships that support the future of organic wine.  

It created a space where organic growers, buyers, winemakers, certifiers, and media could connect, collaborate, and have real conversations. There was a shared sense of purpose and a collective energy that underscored how vital these relationships are to the future of organic wine. By getting everyone at the same table, the conference reinforced that we’re part of a growing movement that depends on trust, open dialogue, and shared goals to move forward.

Q: Many are recognizing that organic wine is more than a label, it’s a movement. How is this movement showing up in Oregon’s wine industry?

DH: You see it in the premium wine sector. Most high-end producers are growing organically or with methods like regenerative organic or biodynamics because organic practices often lead to better fruit quality, which translates to better wine. The market is saturated, and wine quality is a key differentiator.

CS: Organic is the next step in agricultural innovation. In the wine world, there’s a deep appreciation for terroir – place matters. Organic practices align with that philosophy by enhancing how the land expresses itself through the grape

Q: Can you elaborate on how organic practices enhance wine quality?

DH: Grapevines, like all plants, engage in dynamic interactions with soil microbes through their root systems. These interactions are facilitated by the release of compounds, such as phenolics that not only play a key role in plant health but also contribute to the flavor, aroma, and overall structure of the wine. In organic systems, where synthetic inputs are minimized or eliminated, vines depend more heavily on these natural biochemical exchanges. As a result, organically grown grapes often exhibit greater phenolic density, which can enhance the depth, structure, and overall expressiveness of the wine.

Q: What role does education and mentorship play in supporting organic wine growers?

DH: In organic viticulture, education is largely peer-driven. Mentorship plays an essential role in helping growers navigate the challenges and nuances of organic practices. Much of the most valuable learning happens informally through grower-to-grower conversations, field visits, and sharing real-world experiences. 

A great example is the Organic Growers Network in the Willamette Valley, which formed naturally out of a collective desire to connect and share knowledge. It has become an incredible resource that’s open, honest, and grounded in the lived experiences of the growers themselves. That kind of grassroots education creates a strong foundation of trust and accelerates the adoption of organic methods in ways that top-down approaches often can’t match.

CS: The notion that farmers want to hear from other farmers and, in some cases, overwhelmingly prefer it has withstood the test of time. That trust, built through shared challenges and hands-on experience, is at the heart of how organic practices spread and improve. It’s not just about technical know-how; it’s about a culture of support and collective problem-solving. 

In the organic wine community, there’s a clear ethos of collaboration over competition. That spirit creates an environment where mentorship thrives, where people are willing to share what works and what doesn’t for the benefit of the whole. It’s this community-based model of education that allows organic wine growing to continue evolving and succeeding from the vine and the glass.

Q: Let’s talk about market incentives. How does the market influence organic production?

DH: Consumers assume higher-priced wines are organic, and they’re often shocked when they’re not. There’s an expectation, especially among more informed or values-driven buyers, that if a wine is priced at a certain level, it should reflect a higher standard of environmental stewardship, including organic farming. When wines don’t meet that expectation, it often comes as a surprise or even a disappointment. This perception gives organic wines a competitive edge, particularly when they’re priced similarly to conventionally produced wines.

However, under current USDA organic labeling laws, wines can only be labeled as “organic” if they contain no added sulfites, which creates a significant disconnect from the rest of the industry. Many winemakers farm their grapes organically and follow organic practices in the vineyard but add minimal sulfites at bottling for stability—a common practice globally. Because of this, they’re prohibited from labeling their wine as “organic,” even though their vineyard practices align with organic principles. Meanwhile, European producers don’t face the same restrictions and can label their wines as “organic,” even if sulfites are added.

It’s a missed opportunity, both for producers committed to organic farming and for consumers seeking transparency and alignment between their values and labeling. Market incentives are there, but policy needs to catch up to support the growth of organic winemaking.

Q: How does certification connect to advocacy for organic agriculture?

DH: Certification is a form of advocacy. It’s a signal to consumers and policymakers that we’re doing the work. When more operations get certified, we can demand more research funding and better policy support. I used to think certification was just a marketing tool, but now I see it as the bare minimum. It’s a way to make everything you’re doing count and initiate change.

CS: Exactly. Certification enables us to be visible in the data. That’s critical when lobbying for public investment in organic agriculture. Without those numbers, it’s difficult to justify funding, even though organic practices benefit the broader food system, not just certified producers.

Q: Have you seen mentorship or peer networks develop effectively in Oregon?

DH: Yes, absolutely. The Organic Growers Network is a great example. It didn’t start with a name, it just formed naturally. What’s fascinating is that researchers, like Walt McCaffrey at OSU, studied our meetings and found that peer-to-peer learning was more effective than traditional outreach. It’s because trust and vulnerability are key to knowledge-sharing, and that’s easier to foster in person than online.

Q: What support can public and private sectors offer to help vineyards transition to organic?

DH: Private sector buyers, like restaurants and retailers, can highlight wines made from organic grapes. Even dedicating a portion of a wine list to organic wines makes a difference. Consumers can support by buying directly from organic producers. On the public side, policymakers can support by hosting events at organic wineries and spotlighting these practices as the standard, not the exception.

CS: And when public institutions invest in organic, they’re not just supporting 2% of the food system. Organic practices, like cover cropping, crop rotation, and soil building are beneficial for all. Investment in organic is investment in better agriculture, period.

Q: How does the legacy of European viticulture influence modern organic practices?

DH: Organic winegrowing is ancestral. European vineyards evolved with their environments, whereas in the U.S., we’ve introduced non-native grapes into new landscapes. To make it work, we rely on modern systems that prioritize yield over plant health. That often leads to over-spraying and heavy inputs. By contrast, some of the most sustainable systems draw on traditional practices, like grazing and cover cropping, which require local knowledge and community collaboration.

For growers, the organic path is rarely linear but it’s always grounded with intention. As Drew and Chris reflect, the success of organic wine is less about chasing trends and more about aligning with a deeper understanding of land, community and education. Certification is not the destination, but a tool, one that enables recognition, research, and resilience.

At its core, organic winegrowing invites us to engage with tradition while adapting for the future. To lean into peer networks, share knowledge, and advocate not just for our own operations but for the integrity of winegrowing and the broader agricultural community.

For those already practicing organic methods or simply exploring the transition, this is a moment of opportunity. The market is listening. The policy world is paying attention. And most importantly, fellow growers are showing up, ready to collaborate. The invitation is open. The table is set. The question now is: how will you grow?

Start Your Organic Journey Today

Oregon Tilth makes the certification process straightforward and farmer-friendly, with expert guidance at every step. Join a trusted network of growers, reduce synthetic input use, improve soil health, and future-proof your business through verified organic practices. 

Apply now or learn more about transitioning to organic and take the next step toward certification that grows with you.

Stay tuned for Part 2—Looking Ahead: Opportunities for Growing Wine Organically, where we continue the conversation and discuss the opportunities emerging in organic practices, market trends and the power of community building.