Continuing the conversation with Drew Herman, Director of Viticulture at Alexana Estate, and Chris Schreiner, former CEO at Oregon Tilth

Following the 2025 Organic Wine Conference, conversations about the future of organic wine are gaining traction across the Willamette Valley and beyond. In Part 2 of our blog series, Reflections on the 2025 Organic Wine Conference: Cultivating for the Future, we sit down again with Drew Herman Director of Viticulture at Alexana Winery and Chris Schreiner, former CEO of Oregon Tilth, to explore what it really takes to farm organically.

Drew shares with us how Alexana Vineyard has navigated its transition to organic certification, what it takes to farm in alignment with nature, and where the organic wine movement is headed next. Their conversation dives deep into ecological management and how the power of community and collaboration, can play a profound role in creating a thriving future for organic wine.

Q: What was the process like for Alexana Winery to start growing organic vines?

DH: When we decided to go organic, we knew it had to be more than a symbolic gesture or just checking boxes which meant rethinking our entire approach, from the ground up. Literally. We weren’t just trading synthetic sprays for organic-approved ones; we were fundamentally reimagining our relationship to the land.

The first step was ecological restoration. We planted a 26-species cover crop blend across our vineyard to spark biodiversity and awaken the soil microbiome. That might sound simple, but it set a whole new ecological chain in motion. Each plant emits different root exudates, chemical signals that stimulate microbial activity in the soil. The more diversity we introduce, the more microbial relationships we activate, which ultimately supports plant health and nutrient uptake without synthetic fertilizers.

We also brought in sheep to graze, naturally mow, and distribute seeds through their manure, which added another layer of fertility and microbial diversity. And we had to tackle aesthetics, too, people are used to neat rows and trimmed grass. But organic systems aren’t always tidy, and that’s okay. I started telling people, “Think meadow, not golf course,” and that mindset shift helped people see the beauty in biodiversity.

It wasn’t easy. It meant major capital investments in under-vine cultivators, shifting our spray schedule, and doubling down on canopy management to keep disease at bay. But it’s working. Our powdery mildew spore counts have been the lowest in the valley. That’s not despite being organic, it’s because we’re organic and paying close attention to vine health.

CS: What Alexana has done is a textbook example of transitioning from input-based thinking to systems-based thinking. One of the most common missteps we see in organic transitions is treating it like a substitution problem: “What’s the organic version of this input I’ve always used?” That approach often fails, because it ignores the fundamental point, organic management isn’t just about swapping products; it’s about changing how you see your farm.

Under an organic system, you’re not just managing a crop, you’re stewarding an ecosystem. That includes the vineyard floor, the soil food web beneath the vines, the biological activity at the field edges, and the timing of all your interventions. You have to understand the lifecycles of pests and pathogens, the ideal conditions for their development, and how your practices influence those dynamics. It requires observation, adaptability, and deep ecological literacy.

Organic farming is, at its core, more knowledge-intensive. And that’s what makes it both challenging and rewarding.

Q: Have you noticed any changes in wine quality or production since transitioning?

DH: Absolutely. I am biased, but I firmly believe that organic fruit makes better wine. When a grapevine is actively engaging with its environment, when it’s trading nutrients with microbes, navigating competition, and adapting to its ecosystem, it produces more complex secondary metabolites. These are things like flavonoids, terpenes, and other compounds that directly influence aroma, flavor, and mouthfeel in the final wine.

We’re tasting the results in the glass. Not just complexity, but vibrancy, purity, and a deeper sense of place. And the market is catching on. Increasingly, the best-rated and most expensive wines in the Willamette Valley are coming from organic, biodynamic, or regenerative vineyards. 

As for yields, yes, the first year brought some logistical challenges as we dialed in new systems. But once we found our rhythm, we didn’t experience any significant loss in production. In fact, our canopy management and soil health have made our fruit cleaner and more resilient.

Q: What has the customer response been like?

DH: Enthusiastically positive. People love the taste of the wine and the story behind it. But what really surprises them is learning how uncommon organic practices still are in high-end winemaking. Many assume that premium wine means clean farming, but that’s often not the case. Once consumers understand the extent to which synthetic inputs are still used in conventional viticulture, they’re not just supportive, they’re enthusiastic.

We did a cost analysis and found that organic practices a very small amount and when you explain that the additional cost is actually paying for, healthier soil, biodiversity, better working conditions, it becomes a selling point, not a drawback. People want to support wines that align with their values. You just have to tell the story.

Q: What challenges did you face along the way?

DH: Plenty. Transitioning away from herbicides meant investing in expensive new equipment and committing more labor to vineyard floor management. Integrating livestock, like pigs, has been a mixed bag. They’re great for certain ecological functions, but they’re also escape artists, and we’ve had to rework our approach to what species we can responsibly integrate.

But one of the biggest shifts was psychological. We had to unlearn the idea that everything in the vineyard should look neat and controlled. Organic farming asks you to listen, to respond, and to sometimes step back. We’ve stopped planting water-thirsty ornamentals and started embracing native species that thrive in our microclimate. It’s less about imposing our will, and more about aligning with what the land wants to do.

Q: What innovations or practices do you see shaping the future of organic viticulture?

DH:  I think we’re going to see a fusion of old and new—ancestral practices balanced with cutting-edge technology. Drone spraying is a great example. It reduces soil compaction and can apply treatments more efficiently. Remote sensing tools, like aerial imaging for photosynthetic activity or thermal load, are helping us manage variability at a hyper-local scale.

But to me, the real game changer is hybrid grape varieties, disease-resistant vines bred to thrive with minimal intervention. Right now, the industry resists them because they lack name recognition. But if we’re serious about lowering chemical use and diesel emissions, we have to get over that. The future of sustainable wine growing is in these hybrids, especially in organic systems where every spray matters.

Q: Is the organic wine community collaborative or competitive when it comes to sharing practices?

DH: Our wine grower group in Oregon is incredibly collaborative. It’s mostly farmers—people in the vineyard every day so there’s no competition over marketing claims or distribution deals. Everyone shows up to share what’s working and what’s not. That culture of honesty has helped so many growers transition more confidently.

We also benefit from partnerships with organizations like OSU and programs like TOPP, which support knowledge sharing and mentorship. These spaces have real value, even if that value is hard to quantify. They allow us to run parallel experiments, compare notes, and scale up what’s working. I think that’s one of the most impactful ways transformation happens, peer to peer.

Q: What’s next for Alexana on its organic journey?

DH: Our next phase is about deepening our commitment, not just expanding acreage. We’re narrowing our focus to grow the best grapes we possibly can, and in some cases, we’re pulling out vines in underperforming areas and restoring those zones as native oak savanna. We’re leaning into agroecology, planting hedgerows, adding vertical biodiversity, and continuing to diversify our ecosystem.

We’re also looking at our waste systems, from winery byproducts to kitchen scraps, exploring biodigesters and composting loops. Even our packaging is evolving, lighter bottles, no capsules, reusable glass when possible. These may seem like small changes, but collectively, they’re part of a holistic commitment to stewardship. And that extends to hiring too, we bring people onto our team who genuinely care about the land.

“Part of using and stewarding your land wisely is realizing the resources that you have.” – Drew Herman, Director of Viticulture at Alexana Winery

Q: Looking ahead, where do you see the most exciting opportunities emerging right now in terms of organic practices, markets, or community building?

DH:  Organic practices should be the baseline. Everything else should build from there. We’re not just growing wine; we’re growing culture, community, and care for the land.

One of the most exciting areas of opportunity is in deepening community through grower-to-grower collaboration. The Organic Growers Network we’ve developed in Oregon came together without a formal structure, it just evolved organically out of a need for connection. That network has become a powerful platform for peer-to-peer learning, transparency, and trust. And what’s inspiring is how quickly that model is proving effective. We’ve seen firsthand that when growers come together without the pressure of competition just to share what’s working, what’s not, what’s failing, it accelerates innovation across the region.

I also think there’s huge potential in varietal diversification and breeding, particularly when it comes to sustainability. We’re starting to see growers explore hybrids or lesser-known varietals that are better adapted to local conditions, require fewer inputs, and ultimately align more naturally with organic systems. That’s going to be a critical part of farming in a changing climate.

On the market side, consumers are becoming more discerning, not just about how wine tastes, but how it’s made. The days when sustainability was a bonus are over; it’s now an expectation. Buyers want to know how their wine was farmed, and they’re making purchasing decisions based on those values. For organic producers, that’s a huge opportunity. But it also means we have to communicate clearly, educate around what organic certification means, and be ready to back it up with transparency. Organic farming is about relationships between farmers, between plants and soil, and between people and the food system. It’s through those relationships that we’ll build a resilient, healthy future.

CS: I completely agree. One of the most promising shifts I’m seeing is how growers are beginning to embrace their role not just as producers, but as advocates. Advocacy used to be seen as something political or out-of-reach, but we’re broadening the definition. Advocacy can look like choosing to certify, showing up to a local ag board meeting, participating in research, or simply sharing your story in a way that helps demystify organic practices.

There’s also growing momentum in how we structure research and education. The traditional top-down model, where universities develop recommendations and growers passively receive them, is giving way to more community-led approaches. Peer networks, grower-driven trials, and collaborative extension models are redefining what agricultural knowledge looks like. That opens the door for more responsive, regionally appropriate innovation, especially in organic systems.

And finally, I see an opportunity in reclaiming organic as a cultural practice, not just a marketing label or a set of compliance standards. When we talk about organics, we’re talking about ancestral wisdom, land stewardship, and the long arc of farming practices that support both ecological and human health. If we can keep centering those values, we’re not just growing better wine, we’re cultivating a stronger, more connected agricultural future.

Discover More About How You Can Grow Wine Organically

Oregon Tilth makes the certification process straightforward and farmer-friendly, with expert guidance at every step. Join a trusted network of growers, reduce synthetic input use, improve soil health, and future-proof your business through verified organic practices. 

Apply now or learn more about transitioning to organic and take the next step toward certification that grows with you.

Stay tuned for updates on the next Organic Grower’s Network and follow along as Oregon’s wine community continues to pioneer a more ecological, more flavorful future.